Vientiane
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Not the typical capital city that most westerners expect, Vientiane is a quiet, quaint, old world capital that blends so well into the country side that it lacks the feeling of being in a "capital city". Steeped in legend, rich in history, and tucked away on the banks of the Mekong River, the capital city of Laos seems to move along at a slower pace than most Asian cities. Old French colonial buildings, and narrow village like streets that wind around small markets and local temples, wine, cheese and baguettes, lend a feel to Vientiane unlike many neighboring cities. Just outside the city lies an ancient depiction of long forgotten Buddhist and Hindu myth, referred to as Buddha Park, where one can witness over 200 sculptures of gods and monsters which long ago used to govern religious belief. A city fast asleep by 11 PM, Vientiane is a perfect place the explore on foot. A bicycle ride along the riverside, around the fountain which represents the heart of downtown, and a modest trickle of traffic provide for a refreshing escape if coming from any other nearby capital city.
The city of Vientiane is lacking in the deep history that many expect to find when they first arrive. The city was all but destroyed in 1828 when the Siamese invaded, destroying most of the temples and monuments in the former capital of Luang Prabang. Many of the temples have been restored, such as the preeminent Buddhist temple of That Luang in the near countryside, which houses a sizable festival every November. Also not to be missed are the Morning Market, which extends through a full city block of local goods, the Patuxay Victory Monument, and of course, the picturesque colonial buildings side by side with modest thatched roof bars and restaurants that roll through the heart of the city. Known as “Asia’s biggest village”, the capital of Laos is a rapidly changing but still laid back city, with beautiful temples, colonial architecture and great restaurants. The people are also very friendly and are happy to welcome tourists to one of Asia’s last more or less unexplored destinations.
What to see & do
One of the city’s attractions is the localized replica of the Paris Arc de Triomphe, known as Patuxai. Built with materials provided by the US for a local airport (would have made a pretty small airport…), it is one of the few high viewpoints and provides a nice view over downtown Vientiane. It is also located on one of the city’s largest boulevards and surrounded by pleasant greenery.
Vientiane is a great stop for those that enjoy the pleasures of French cuisine, with the influence of their former colonial masters visible everywhere from the humble roadside sandwich stalls to rather excellent restaurants clustered in the area of the Nam Phou Fountain. Bakery is an area in which the Laotians especially excel, with some of the best pastry products in SE Asia available at rock-bottom prices from dawn till dusk. The Nam Phou area is also favored by numerous tourists due to the availability of low-cost hotels and guesthouses.
Probably the nicest place to stay in Vientiane is the excellent Settha Palace Hotel, a lovingly restored French mansion which also has great service and would make the perfect venue for a romantic getaway in Laos’ peaceful capital.
The banks of the Mekhong River are also nice to visit. You can have a peaceful meal or drink in any one of a large number of cafes. It is rather basic and you can expect an experience similar to that of a quiet beach.
Vientiane also has some fine Loatian temples, that many Many travelers love: That Dam, Wat Si Saket and Pha Tat Luang are all quite unique in their own way and are an interesting sight for Buddhism aficionados.
Getting Around
The easiest ways to get around Vientiane are the ubiquitous motorcycle tuk-tuks (“jumbos”), old taxis imported from Thailand. Walking is also a good way to get around, as most of the city’s places of interest are within 2-3 km of one another. Bargaining is expected, except for getting to the city from the airport or the Thai border, where a prepaid coupon system is in place ($6 from the airport, $10 from the Thai border as of writing).
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